June 9-12 Freiburg to Ulm

Today's rest day is in Ulm, Einstein's birthplace, marked with a rather modest modern sculpture. The city seems rather more proud of its other famous son, a gentleman who invented hang-gliding (sigh). The weather is much better, warm and fine with occasional thunderstorms.

We left Freiburg on Monday morning in sunshine. The day consisted of a long steady climb all morning through country that reminded me of the Juras, then an exhilirating descent into Donaueschingen, "source of the Danube" and the start of the Danube cycleway. The source of the Danube is marked with a monument, although a neighbouring village a few kilometers away also claims the honour.

The Danube cycleway is a network of secondary roads and dedicated cycle paths, paved and unpaved, that criss-crosses the Danube from Donaueschingen to Budapest -- 1350 km and our planned route for many more days to come. So far it has been quite well signposted, but it is easy to get lost. We thought it would be flat, but the young Danube flows through hilly country, and the cycle route took us on abrupt climbs opening out to breathtaking views. The countryside is magnificent, and every village -- and there are many of them -- picture-perfect. As in France, there is always a church and a Rathaus (town hall). During the first day the Danube was little more than a muddy stream, but on the second day it gathered strength and here in Ulm it is already a good-sized river.

We camped near Donaueschingen and Sigmaringen, both good campsites, and here in Ulm we are staying at the very nice Movenpick hotel. It is asparagus season, and many restaurants offer Spargel menus -- white asparagus with hollandaise sauce, new potatoes, accompanied by a schnitzel or wurst. Such is the status of white asparagus that, in a reversal of roles, the meat accompanies the vegetable. The twice-daily boulangerie/patisserie has been replaced by the Backerei/Konditorei, to equal satisfaction and with the addition of wonderful ice-cream concoctions -- strawberries are coming into season as well.

Some new arrivals have joined the group, including another couple from South Africa and a pair of Harvard MBAs who have returned from their graduation ceremonies and will continue through to Beijng. Sadly, we have also lost a couple due to a fall and a fractured fibula yesterday.